Living In Your RV In The Winter Tips

We have talked about staying warm in your RV during the cold winter months. First by moving South to warmer weather but, for many that is not an option. If you have to say in the cold for whatever reason what should you do to help your RV not to freeze? Let's look at the different areas of the RV and what can be done to keep that area from freezing.






First the outside perimeter.  Ok, let's get it on the table, do not use bales of hay to surround the rig.

Why they are cheap and easy to stack?
Because of  FIRE, rodents, and bugs. If for some unknown reason the hay should catch fire there would be little chance of survival.  And don't forget that many outdoor creatures would love to come inside your RV and spend the cold winter months.

What can be used?  You can use skirting for your specific RV. Which is shown below;

Custom Trailer Skirting

While this is expensive it is a good solution to the problem of cold air getting under your RV.
Click on the link below the above picture or on the following link for details. EZSnapDirect.com

There is another solution for the DIYer and that is 

Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board

Foil-Faced Foam Sheathing board is a rigid polyisocyanurate foam sheathing that provides exceptional heat, moisture, and air control.

• 4'x8' sheet (9' and 10' available via special order)
• 3/4" thick
• R-4.4
• One side has a reflective foil face typically installed toward the warm air surface to reflect energy back toward the dwelling and the other side has a white non-reflective foil face typically installed toward the exterior.
• Can be used in residential construction as insulated sheathing in above grade exterior walls, above and below grade interior walls crawl spaces attic, and cathedral ceilings as well as Type I-V commercial applications
• Highest R-value per inch of any rigid board insulation.
• Does not melt when exposed to flame versus other types of rigid foam board (ASTM E84)
• Reflective aluminum foil face blocks radiant heat and prevents penetration of air and intrusion of moisture

Dimensions: 3/4" x 4ft x 8ft Cost as little as $9.25 per sheet

This type of foil backed foam board can be cut to fit and close-in around the RV to protect the underbelly of the RV from freezing. This type of insulation is available at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc.

You would secure the foam to the RV and to itself by using aluminum heating duct tape.

Aluminum Heating Duct Tape

The area under the RV that you create by enclosing the area needs to be heated with a low heat generator such as this mini heater.

Mini Heater

This heater uses about 200 watts of AC power and I would use two of them for a 40ft trailer.  The heater should be placed off the ground several inches in case of water flow.

Second is the water and control compartment.

Yours may look different,  but the issue is that it needs heat.  This area should be kept warm by a Mini Heater or 60 watt light bulb.  The concern is the water hookup to the trailer and the ability to release the black and grey water tanks valves. One problem you can encounter with a light bulb as a heat source is light.  In many articles that I have read on winter camping one solution to heating, a small area is using a 60 watt light bulb.  But at no time does anyone offer a solution to the light pollution that is given off by the bulb.  Here is one solution you might consider,  a

60 Watt Non-Lighting Heat Source

60 Watt Non-Lighting Heat Source

 This non-lighting heat source can be used by screwing into a clamp on-light fixture or using just a bulb socket and cord.

Following is a sample of a clamp on a lamp base.

Clamp On Lamp Base

For the fresh water lines, you will need to use the shortest hose you can to go between your rig and the fresh water source. 

Pirit Heated Water Hose

• Provides a constant source of water in freezing temperatures
• Thermostatically controlled
• Turns on when temperatures are below 45 degrees
• Turns off when temperatures are above 50 degrees
• Made from drink-safe PVC
• Keeps water from freezing down to minus 42-Degrees Fahrenheit
• Tougher thermostat

Do not let the hose lay on the ground.  You can do this by wrapping the water hose in pipe insulation. You can get some from Home Depot, Lowes Menards etc.

Pipe Insulation

Use some of the Aluminum Tape to seal the pipe insulation and do not forget to wrap the water source with pipe insulation to help keep it flowing.  Some people even build a box out of the foil foam board to cover the water source to further insulate.

Next the sewer and sewer hose. "DO NOT LEAVE THE DRAIN VALVES OPEN" Open as needed to dump the gray or black tank.  Use the shortest sewer pipe you can and you need to support it off the ground.  Wrap the sewer hose with heat tape first.

Heat Tape 30 Feet

Next wrap the sewer hose and heat tape in a blanket made from a Hot Water Heater Insulation blanket

Water Heater Insulation 

You want to wrap it tightly and then tape it very well to hold it together.  Leave an overlap at both ends to go over the sewer connection and the sewer pipe that comes out of the ground and be sure the heater tape is wrapped around the end of the pipe that is attached to the RV as well as the water heater insulation blanket.

To keep the sewer hose off the ground and well supported you can use rain gutter pipe or you can use,

 RV Sewer Hose Support

Some RVers even put a gallon of RV antifreeze down the black tank after dumping the tank to help ensure that nothing gets frozen between dumps.

RV Antifreeze

I have not tried this myself, but there is no reason it would not be a good idea.  It is an added expense that would need to be considered.

I believe that covers the outside of the rig now let's move inside and see what can be done to keep out the cold and keep in the warm.

You need to check all the doors that you go in and out of the rig with.  If you can see daylight around the edge of the door with the door closed. You will have cold air coming into the rig.  You need to put door weather seal around the door to seal the door better.

Door Weather Seal

What about the windows you say.  You are right if your rig windows are single pane, as most of them are, you will need to winterize them as well.  The easiest way is to use the small bubble pack wrapping material that you can find almost anywhere.

Bubble Wrap

Installation
• Cut the bubble wrap to the size of the window pane with scissors.
• Spray a film of water on the window using a spray bottle.
• Spray a film of water on the bubble side of the bubble wrap using a spray bottle.
• Apply the bubble wrap while the window is still wet and press it into place.
• The bubble side goes toward the glass.
• To remove the bubble wrap, just pull it off starting from a corner.

Next, let's look at the vents in the rig. All of the vents through the roof allow warm air to rise into a cold space and chill the air.  We need to block the upward movement of the air but still be able to use the vent when needed.  A vent pillow is just the thing.  You can make them if you are handy or buy some cheap pillows you can stuff into the vent opening or you can get these.

RV Vent Insulator

Fits standard 14" RV vents

Reflective surface blocks the sun's damaging rays

Full 2.75" of foam to help stop heat transfer

Durable and easy to store

Keep your RV cooler in the Summer and warmer in the Winter

Now that we have sealed the rig against the cold air we have now trapped water vapor from cooking, propane heating, showers, and human breathing inside the rig.  You will begin to see water or moisture on the walls of the rig and anything that is colder than the inside air.  This is not good and can cause mold.  To get rid of the moisture and reduce the humidity we need a dehumidifier.  Several ideas come to mind.

First,

RV Dehumidifier

Quiet Small-Size Dehumidifier with No Moving Parts

Removable 16-oz. Water Tank & Washable Air Filter

Features 'Tank Full' Indicator Light

Auto-Shuts When Water Reservoir is Full

Measures Just 5.75" x 5.32" x 8.78" in

You might need two of these in a large 40ft rig.  They do work and keep the air drier but not completely dry.

Next is the Goldenrod Heaters.  You also will need several of these in larger rigs but they are smaller and you do not need to dump them, like the one above.

 Goldenrod Dehumidifier

This unit comes in different sizes up to 36 inches in length.  It consumes about 1 watt per inch and is mounted along the wall at the floor level.  You will need several in a large rig as they can dehumidify approximately 200 cubic feet of air. So if you have a bunkhouse then that room would have its own unit. The main living area would have one and the master bedroom would have one.

Something I have used is DampRid in closets and drawers where moisture is not wanted and may be harmful to the contents of the surrounding area.

DampRid Moisture Absorber

That should do it.  You have done your best to get the rig ready for winter and now the daily grind begins.  In a separate blog post, we cover how to keep you and the kids warm when it is cold outside.

Until next time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

RV Security On The Road And In Storage

It is that time of year again when most of us will have to store our RVs until next Spring. We all do the Winterizing like we are suppose to.  But how many of us even worry about someone coming along and stealing our RV?  Well, we should.  Let's take a look at what you can do to protect your, very expensive RV from being stolen.
Because I live in the city, I can't store my Open Range 3X anywhere on my property or on the street. So like a lot of city dwellers I have to put my RV in storage when I am not using it.  To my shock and amazement, two units were stolen right out of the storage lot that I use.  To add insult to injury, the storage lot had a guard on site, a security system for entrance, and security cameras.  But the same guy managed to get two units out of the locked lot.  Well, thanks to the security cameras they caught the guy.  But what can you and I do to make our units harder to steal and more secure.  Let's look.





First, we can add a lock to the ball area of a TT and a 5th Wheel Hitch Lock. Let's look at both.  The TT ball lock looks like below.

TT ball lock

• One size fits all (from 1-7/8", 2", to 2-5/15", all coupler types)
• Keyhole cover slides up to seal out dirt and grime
• Type A key which is a spring loaded, 7 pin, high-security key. Resists attempted drill outs. Rugged and durable, the key will not bend or break.
• Huge 6 tooth, 3/8" dual ratchet locking system
• Hardened 5/8" 16mm steel shackle

Now that should slow down anyone trying to take the TT quickly.  Now let's look at what can be done to slow down the would-be thief stealing a 5er.  See below for the 5th Wheel Anti-Theft device

5th Wheel Anti-Theft device

This unit slides over the hitch pin and prevents the hitch pin from being attached to, by the hitch receiver. Simple but effective to slow down our would-be thief.

I think we could do more. How about we lock the tires so the RV cannot be moved without putting new tires on the RV? Shown below is an RV Dual Wheel Stop with Padlock

 RV Dual Wheel Stop with Padlock

• Secure tandem tires to prevent movement while parked or re-hitching
• Fits 26" to 30" diameter tires with tire spacing of 3-1/2" to 5-1/2"
• Includes, padlock
• Easy grip handle for easy installation
• Lightweight and durable

This should slow them up but what about something even better?  Let's look at the X Wheel Stop with Padlock.

 X Wheel Stop with Padlock.

While the lock for this heavy-duty unit is extra (a Master Lock, that you supply) it will be well worth it if it slows down someone trying to take your RV.  In most cases, if it is hard to take or time-consuming to take the thief will move on to easier pickings.

We have protected (to the best of our ability) someone trying to take your RV but what about protecting the expensive stuff inside the RV and in the storage bay.  Let's take a look on how to help protect those areas.

First the entrance doors.  Did you know that the key to your RV has been duplicated many times by the manufacturer of your RV?  Did you know that almost any thief can come up with a key that fits your RV doors?

So let's look at a lock that is a bit safer. The Keyless RV Door Lock

Keyless RV Door Lock

• No wiring needed; uses 4 AA batteries (not included) It's retrofittable in most RV entry doors and it's easy to install.
•  Programmable with a 4 digit PIN number The large buttons are easy to see and use Proximity sensing which illuminates the buttons.
• Self-contained electronic RV latch with Capacitive Touch Technology
• Offers hassle-free touchpad access: no key or fob to carry with you.
• An integral touchpad to the latch which controls the deadbolt
• Deadbolt key will always be able to operate the paddle or deadbolt lock in case of the user forgetting the code or having a dead battery, 8-inch x 5-inch x 4-inch.

You don't even need a key to get this lock to open after you enter your personal pin number.  So it will not be a big deal if you lock your keys in the RV. By mistake, of course.

Let's take a look at the outside storage compartment locks.  Did you know that's the lock code for your storage compartment lock is CH751?  This is the most common lock used on TT and 5th wheels today.  So anyone can get in. Let's look at a better idea. The RV Storage Compartment Combi Lock.

RV Storage Compartment Combi Lock

• Cylinder length 1-1/8"" - accommodates material thickness up to 7/8" thick
• Durable solid metal
• 1,000 possible combinations- set your own code
• Retrofits any standard cam lock
• Comes with 3/4" prong washer, 1-1/2" offset cam, 3/4" straight cam, 1-1/2" straight cam and a 90 degree stop.

This type of lock is a direct replacement to what comes on most TTs and 5ers. You take off the old one and measure the hole opening and the length of the shaft and order the same size as the one you have.

Follow the installation instructions and you are done. A really simple install.

Until Next Time



And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Can You Hear Me Now? Breaker Breaker 1... 9.....

For this post, I would like to discuss keeping in touch with the family while camping.  Many people in the good old days, used string and two soup cans or a CB walkie-talkie to keep in touch with family members during camping.  Most of the campers in the olden time and even RVers today, nothing was or is used to stay in touch.  While some may believe that a cell phone is good enough, and it may be traveling down the interstate, in a campground in the wilderness or at the nearby lake you may find that the good old cell phone does not work, even a little.   You may find that the carrier you have is the wrong carrier for good service in the area that you are in and that the other guy would have been a better choice.  Whatever the case, today we have very small radios called FRS/GMRS that will last a long time on batteries, give you several miles of range, be quiet and can even be set up for "selective call" so only your family members will hear you when you call them in for lunch or are backing up the rig.  RVers who are backpackers take note, these little radios can have weather radios and GPS built-in as well.








Let's take a look at a few [shown below] and discuss their features and benefits in more detail.

Motorola Model MD200R

Shown above are some Basic FRS radios.  They come as a pair when you buy them and have the following feature set.  The units come with rechargeable batteries, two belt clips, charging cable, AC adapter and have a range of 20 miles over flat and open terrain.  They offer a 12hr battery life.  As you can see the unit does not offer a lot of features but it works and could be used when backing the RV into that tight site, right next to the lake.



Motorola MH230

Above is shown a step-up model of an FRS/GMRS radio.  It can run on alkaline batteries for up to 10hrs or 8hrs on rechargeable batteries.  This model from Motorola includes 11 weather channels, 22 talk channels, and each channel has 121 privacy codes, (selective call)  for privacy.  The range is 23 miles over flat and open terrain.  It comes with belt clips and 1 dual drop-in charger to charge the pair of radios at the same time to save you time.  Use one as a base station at the RV and give the other one to whoever you want to keep track of.  Additional units can be purchased so everyone who needs one has one.  This unit would be great for a fisherman to keep in touch while out in the boat on the lake.

Garmin Rino 650 with GPS & FRS



 Calling all Backpacking RVers out there.  Here is an FRS/GMRS radio that has a built-in GPS or a GPS that has a built-in FRS/GMRS radio.  This unit is not low cost, but it does show that just about any need for communications while RVing can be met with an FRS/GMRS radio.  For the fun of it here are some of the features of this radio.  The radio has a 2.6-inch color touchscreen that is glove friendly.  A high sensitivity GPS receiver, a rugged waterproof case. Runs 18hrs on a set of batteries, and has a list of accessories as long as your arm. 

While most of us will want a lower cost unit you need not suffer from little to no features.  Range, the number of channels, the privacy feature (selective call), and battery life are the important ones to watch out for.

Safety and peace of mind make the weekend RV getaway fun and exciting for the whole family and the ability to stay in touch with all members of the camping party does that for me and my family.









Until next time.  Over and Out?

Pressure And More Pressure On Your RV's Water Lines

Are you putting to much water pressure on your RV's PEX water lines and their PEX fittings?  Do you know how much pressure you can put on your RV's water lines and their  PEX fittings?
Let's take a look and see what's what.








RV manufacturers typically use PEX  PlasticTubing for all RV plumbing runs. The two sizes are commonly used, 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch. These are the standard size because the outside diameter of the tubing is about 1/8-inch greater than the called-for size. Red PEX is usually the Hot water line and Blue or Clear the cold water line.  But, not always.  There are special fittings used with this type of water line called PEX fittings.  Below are some examples of some fittings you might see under one of your sinks.

The fittings can be of any color or even colorless but they will all have the ribs you see on the fittings above.  You will also note that each PEX fitting has a crimped ring around it.  The ring looks like below.

To put the ring on the PEX tubing and secure the ring you would need a crimping tool.  Shown below.

OK, now that you understand what you currently have let's discuss the problems this type of system brings the RVer.  The whole system can leak at any time and usually does. Every connection, if it is not put on correctly, will leak at the worse possible time. Ah, you say no problem I will just squeeze the ring with my trusty pliers.  Well, your trusty pliers will not be able to squeeze the connector hard enough to seal the leak in most cases.  What to do?  Change the fitting to a more updated connector.  We will cover that in just a minute.

Why do these cheap PEX products not work well all the time?  PRESSURE, water pressure from campgrounds varies greatly and can not.  The PEX water system in an RV cannot safely go above 65 pounds of water pressure.  I will not allow mine to go over 55 pounds of pressure.  

How do I control the RV Parks water pressure with a brass water pressure regulator? 

Brass RV Water Regulator

 You can adjust this type of regulator to any safe water pressure you like for your RV.  This type of regulator does not affect the flow of the water just the pressure. There are lesser expensive water pressure regulators like the one shown below.

Fixed Water Pressure Regulator

While this type will regulate the water pressure it also affects the flow of the water which some people find objectable.  Either one will protect your RV water system from to much PRESSURE.

OK, you just found a PEX fitting under the kitchen island that is leaking now what can you do to fix the problem and how much time is it going to cost you?

You should carry a few Shark Bite connectors like the ones shown below.

Shark Bite Coupler

Shark Bite T

Shark Bite to Threaded 

There are even more fittings to choose from but you get the idea.  The advantages of these types of connector are, 

• INSTALLS IN SECONDS: 1/2 inch straight coupling requires no special tools, no soldering, no crimping or glue. Just push to create a watertight seal

• COPPER, PEX, CPVC: SharkBite straight coupling plumbing fittings fits copper tubing, and CTS CPVC and PEX and connects all three types in any combination

• CERTIFIED: SharkBite fittings are certified to 200 PSI and 200°F and can be reused up to four times

Now doesn't that beat the PEX connector and all the fuss it would take to fix a leaky connection?

The real story here is to control your water pressure coming into your RV.  If you do not you will find leaks and under the shower or under sink water damage.  

One other thing you may want to add a water shutoff to your toilet so in case you need to work on it you do not have to shut off all the water to the RV.

Shark Bite Shut Off

Until Next Time

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Propane Gas Saving Ideas

I am sure most of you have noticed that gas of all kinds including diesel fuel is going up in price.  Many of us would like to stretch our Propane Gas as far as possible.  Well, there are some basic tricks of the RV lifestyle that can help you do just that.  You must have access to AC power (shore power) to make these tricks work.

The first one has to do with your hot water heater.  If your unit is a dual operating type (AC and Propane) force your unit to use AC whenever possible by shutting off your propane tanks. Turn your hot water heater off overnight.  The tank will keep the water hot to warm all night.

But your comment is, how will I cook anything?  The answer to that follows.

Second is to use induction cooking.  An induction cooktop uses magnetic energy to heat and cook whatever is in a pot or pan that a magnet can stick to.  For example, this Deluxe Burton Induction Cooktop is what I have and it works just great.  This is what it looks like;

Deluxe Burton Induction Cooktop

Here are some of the features of this Induction Cooktop ;

• 1800-watt high-quality induction cooktop provides 10 power levels
• Push-button controls and digital display; 180-minute timer with auto shut-off
• 10 temperature settings; overheat sensor; in-line fuse
• For use with induction-compatible cookware; the unsuitable-cookware detector
• Measures 13-2/7 by 12-1/2 by 2-3/5 inches

As mentioned in the features of the cooktop you must use cookware that a magnet will stick to.  Most cookware today is aluminum and so would not work.  You do not need a completely new set of cookware just enough to get by with using the induction cooktop.

Here is an example of Induction Cookware shown below;

Induction Cookware 

Any cookware will work as long as a refrigerator magnet will stick to the bottom of the pan or pot.  Here is a chance to go to Goodwill or other secondhand shop and make a killing on induction ready cookware.  Just be sure to bring your refrigerator magnet with you.

But you are a baker by trade and need to often use the oven that came with your Rig for that purpose.  What are you to do?  Well let's look at a solution called the Infrared Countertop Oven shown below;

Infrared Countertop Oven

Some of the features of this innovative oven are shown below;

• Digital-controlled infrared oven cooks food quickly and easily
• Cooking methods include conduction, convection, and infrared radiant heat
• No preheating, defrosting, or ventilation needed; dishwasher-safe parts
• Extender ring, cooking rack, baking pan, manual, and recipes included
• Measures approximately 14 by 14 by 16 inches
• 3-inch Extender Ring, 2-inch rack, 10-inch baking pan 
• Cooks up to a 16 Lb. turkey /141b ham with Extender Ring

So now we have the baking taken care of and we are not cooking with gas but electricity and so are saving gas and bucks ($). 

I heard you lady in the back row.  You are cold at night and need some heat so turning off the Propane gas is not an option.  Let's look at some options here as well.  

You could put one of these Mattress Heating Pads on your bed and plug into electric and sleep warm as toast all night.  These heated pads come in all the popular sizes King, Queen, and Twin.  I have shown the queen size below;

Mattress Heating Pads

Because heat rises this mattress type heating pad is much better than a heating blanket and will use less power to keep you toasty warm during the cold night. 

Ah, but you need to heat the Rig so you need more power, I mean heat.  Then you want a Ceramic Space Heater  This type of heater generates a lot of heat for very little electricity used.  The one pictured below is what I use.  I have a 30ft TT and use two of the Ceramic Heaters. One blowing toward the bedroom and one in the living room blowing toward the kitchen.  These heaters will cook you out of the Rig, they can generate so much heat.  I winter camp in North Texas and it can get below freezing, as we all found out in the winter of 2013/2014.  But even though my water hose froze outside, inside we were as warm as toast.  Shown below is the  Space Heater I have;

 Space Heater 

I have listed some of the features of this unit below;

• Ceramic space heater with adjustable thermostat for comfortable warmth—ideal for home or office
• 1500-watt high setting; 3 output options: Low, High, or Fan Only; power indicator light lets you know when it’s plugged in
• For safety: tip-over switch with auto shut-off and overheat protection with auto shut-off; ETL listed
• Carrying handle for easy transport; not for use in bathrooms, laundry areas, or other high-humidity rooms

If you have a four-legged friend (Furkid) traveling with you, please take note: this unit comes with Auto Shut-Off.  If the Ceramic Heater is tipped over the heater shuts off automatically.  This is a very important feature if you are traveling with four-footed friends.  There are some clumsy two-legged friends out there as well.

Again I remind you that these LP Gas saving tips only work if you have access to a power pedestal so you can get AC power.  With these hints, the Propane Gas becomes the backup plan and not the main source of energy for your Rig.  I know from experience that these hints and tips will work.

Until next time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Let's Check Those RV Tires Again!

 While some of us are still digging out of the winter storms, some of us are dreaming about the first warm weekend of the new camping year. So what do you do first with your stored RV?  Check the tire pressure with a good tire pressure gage.  The tire's max pressure is located on the side wall of the tires on your RV.  Do not use the pressures recommended by the RV manufacture UNLESS the RV has the original tires that it came with from the factory.

I use both a screw-on tire pressure indicator, such as Quick-Pressure-PSI-50-Monitor, which at a glance can tell you that you may have a problem [use only if your tires are supposed to have 50 lbs of air when cold. Other pressures are available]  and the traditional pencil like gauge, such as Pencil-Pressure Gauge

 Be sure to test or look at the tire pressure gage before you have moved your RV a mile.

Quick-Pressure-PSI-50-Monitor

You need to check the tire pressure when the tire is still cold. 

Another good, but pricey, system for monitoring your tire pressure as well as the tire temperature is the  Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System. I am saving for this one.

Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System

The system will tell you of an overheated tire, in most cases before it blows, and of course tell you of low pressure in any monitored tire, even the spare,  in real time no need to stop every 20 miles and check those darn tires - LOL.  When you stop for gas or a bathroom break you should do a tire check of the RV as well as a tow vehicle. My daughter was checking the tow vehicle for me and found a large cut in the sidewall of the truck tire.  We were able to get the tire replaced before the large accident occurred.  I did not even remember hitting or running over anything on the highway.
Be sure to carefully look at the tread, and the side walls both on the front and the back of the tire.  Most RV tire experts agree that if your tiers are more than five years old from the date of manufacture you should replace them.  Most tire failures occur when the side wall of the tire is under inflated or rots out from the inside where you can not see.  You can thank Mr. Sun for sidewall failure in some cases.  Most tires have a Sun inhibitor built-in but when a tire sits and sits the inhibitor does not get moved to the outside of the tire by the tire going round and round.

Now you see why you need wheel covers right? Trailer Wheel Covers for less than $25.  To protect the tires in storage from Mr. Sun and any other nasties that come along.
You can also use an RV tire protective spray which is applied, as directed, to the tire sidewall that is exposed to the sun.  I have used RV Tire Protection Spray with good luck.  This spray is NOT designed to make the tire sidewall shinier, it is not a decorative spray, but something that is designed to put back into the surface of the rubber what Mr. Sun is taking out.

RV Tire Protection Spray

Also, note that if you are going to store the RV for an extended period of time you should protect the tread from the surface that the tires are sitting on.  Nasty things can leach out of your tires into the blacktop or concrete that your RV sits on while being stored. Or from the blacktop or concrete into your tires during storage.  You can use an  Office Chair Mat that sells for less than $20,
for each side of the RV and just back onto it as you are putting the RV away.
Or you can Go to Tractor Supply or any farm supply and pick up horse stall mats. 

Cut to the size you need for just $20.  Now that is easy.

If you are supposed to replace your tires every five years how do you know when your tires were made?  There is a code date molded into the side wall of the tire. (you can thank our government)   The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requires that Tire Identification Numbers be a combination of the letters DOT, followed by ten, eleven or twelve letters and/or numbers that identify the manufacturing location, tire size, and manufacturer's code, along with the week and year the tire was manufactured.  Since 2000, the week and year the tire was produced has been provided by the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number with the 2 digits being used to identify the week immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year.

Below is an example of a tire manufactured since 2000 with the current Tire Identification Number format:

In the example above DOT U2LL LMLR 5107
DOT U2LL LMLR 5107	Manufactured during the 51st week of the year
DOT U2LL LMLR 5107	Manufactured during 2007

While the entire Tire Identification Number is required to be molded onto one sidewall of every tire, current regulations also require that DOT and the first digits of the Tire Identification Number must also be molded onto the opposite sidewall. Therefore, it is possible to see a Tire Identification Number that appears incomplete and requires looking at the tire’s other sidewall to find the entire Tire Identification Number.
I know you are saying to yourself,  but the RV is only three years old.  We are not talking about the year your RV was built, but the year the tires were manufactured and they may be not the same so please check.   If your tire's serial number cannot be read by you, then you need to take the tire or RV to an RV dealer or tire shop and have the tires read.  Please do not be pulling your RV with old tires that may jeopardize your families safety as well as others.   [If you want more information on tire markings and such go to Tire Tech Information]

Ok, you have checked the date code of your tires and they are in fact only three years old.  Tire pressure is up and you're ready to go.  Not so fast!

We need to discuss lug nut tightness.  Each Spring or before a major trip you should check the tightness of the lug nuts on each of the RV tires.  You need to check your owners manual for the correct setting.  My 5er has the specifications of 100ft LBS.  I use an inexpensive torque wrench, which I keep in the RV toolbox, to confirm the setting. 1/2' Torque Wrench  To keep the wrench outside of the tire rim I also use an extender. 1/2" Socket Extension The socket size depends on your lug nut size.

Tire Check Quick Guide 

1. Check all RV tires for max pressure listed on the tire sidewall.

2. Check tire tread and sidewalls for wear and cracks.

3. Cover tires from sun damage when not using.

4. Keep tires off of storage surface during storage.

5. Check the age of tires yearly.

6. Check your tires every time you stop.

7. Do maintenance on your tires as needed.
8. Check lug nut tightness.

Until Next time.