Improve Your Over The Air HD Reception

If you are RVing for just a weekend or full timing it, the chances are good that you will be with-in range of one or more HD TV channels.  The problem is that most of us just can't seem to get enough signal to watch TV.  Heaven forbid that it rains and you would need something to entertain the kids besides a good book.






Most RVs come with a crank-up antenna like the following.

While this antenna is a good one, it was designed for mostly VHF analog TV reception.  (The old style TVs.)  Most of the TV reception today is UHF digital and calls for a bit more antenna.
Winegard has solved the problem with the addition of the Wingman below.

Wingman HD TV Add-On



This unit attaches to your current Winegard crank-up antenna and really does boost HD TV reception.  No special tools are required to attach it to your current antenna .  Just follow the instructions that are included with the antenna.
I have added one of these Wingman Antennas to my crank-up RV antenna and have really seen a major improvement in the number of channels that I can receive as well as the strenght of the signal on the channels that I could always get.

Let's talk about maintenance of your crank-up antenna.  At least once an RV season you should get up on the roof of the RV and lubricate all the swivel points on the crank-up mechanism.  I have used  White Grease in the past but this year I am going with T9 Lube which is a bit less messy than the white grease.

Now that you have a great HD TV Antenna you might need some help pointing your TV antenna for better reception of local stations, try this link: Maximize your television reception.  Follow the instructions,  just enter the zip code where you are, or use the map to place a pin where you are and the site will tell you the best direction to get the strongest local TV signals. Be sure to tell the program that the antenna will be mounted more than 30ft in the air to get all the TV channels.  Along with a list of the TV stations with-in range.

Have you read stories about RVers forgetting to crank-down their TV antennas and losing them to a tree?  Here is an idea to stop that.

RVminder Tags

This kind of idea has worked for me.  You could use some brightly colored ribbon and just write Antenna on it and attach it to the crank handle of the antenna and put a second reminder in the towing vehicle.  Anything to remind you to crank the antenna down.



Also do not forget to check the antenna amplifer switch is you are have problems with off the antenna reception.  When you switch from park satellite/cable you will need to turn the antenna amplifier back on.  Most RV parks request that you turn the antenna ampilifier off when hooking up to the parks system.

Until Next Time.

The Weekend RVers is a Facebook Group on RVing with Hints & Tips. A group for the Full-timer as well as the Newbie or Wanna B. In case U can't find us "Facebook.com/groups/Weekend.RVers" we are here hoping you will join us!

Can You Hear Me Now? Breaker Breaker 1... 9.....

For this post, I would like to discuss keeping in touch with the family while camping.  Many people in the good old days, used string and two soup cans or a CB walkie-talkie to keep in touch with family members during camping.  Most of the campers in the olden time and even RVers today, nothing was or is used to stay in touch.  While some may believe that a cell phone is good enough, and it may be traveling down the interstate, in a campground in the wilderness or at the nearby lake you may find that the good old cell phone does not work, even a little.   You may find that the carrier you have is the wrong carrier for good service in the area that you are in and that the other guy would have been a better choice.  Whatever the case, today we have very small radios called FRS/GMRS that will last a long time on batteries, give you several miles of range, be quiet and can even be set up for "selective call" so only your family members will hear you when you call them in for lunch or are backing up the rig.  RVers who are backpackers take note, these little radios can have weather radios and GPS built-in as well.








Let's take a look at a few [shown below] and discuss their features and benefits in more detail.

Motorola Model MD200R

Shown above are some Basic FRS radios.  They come as a pair when you buy them and have the following feature set.  The units come with rechargeable batteries, two belt clips, charging cable, AC adapter and have a range of 20 miles over flat and open terrain.  They offer a 12hr battery life.  As you can see the unit does not offer a lot of features but it works and could be used when backing the RV into that tight site, right next to the lake.



Motorola MH230

Above is shown a step-up model of an FRS/GMRS radio.  It can run on alkaline batteries for up to 10hrs or 8hrs on rechargeable batteries.  This model from Motorola includes 11 weather channels, 22 talk channels, and each channel has 121 privacy codes, (selective call)  for privacy.  The range is 23 miles over flat and open terrain.  It comes with belt clips and 1 dual drop-in charger to charge the pair of radios at the same time to save you time.  Use one as a base station at the RV and give the other one to whoever you want to keep track of.  Additional units can be purchased so everyone who needs one has one.  This unit would be great for a fisherman to keep in touch while out in the boat on the lake.

Garmin Rino 650 with GPS & FRS



 Calling all Backpacking RVers out there.  Here is an FRS/GMRS radio that has a built-in GPS or a GPS that has a built-in FRS/GMRS radio.  This unit is not low cost, but it does show that just about any need for communications while RVing can be met with an FRS/GMRS radio.  For the fun of it here are some of the features of this radio.  The radio has a 2.6-inch color touchscreen that is glove friendly.  A high sensitivity GPS receiver, a rugged waterproof case. Runs 18hrs on a set of batteries, and has a list of accessories as long as your arm. 

While most of us will want a lower cost unit you need not suffer from little to no features.  Range, the number of channels, the privacy feature (selective call), and battery life are the important ones to watch out for.

Safety and peace of mind make the weekend RV getaway fun and exciting for the whole family and the ability to stay in touch with all members of the camping party does that for me and my family.









Until next time.  Over and Out?

Pressure And More Pressure On Your RV's Water Lines

Are you putting to much water pressure on your RV's PEX water lines and their PEX fittings?  Do you know how much pressure you can put on your RV's water lines and their  PEX fittings?
Let's take a look and see what's what.








RV manufacturers typically use PEX  PlasticTubing for all RV plumbing runs. The two sizes are commonly used, 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch. These are the standard size because the outside diameter of the tubing is about 1/8-inch greater than the called-for size. Red PEX is usually the Hot water line and Blue or Clear the cold water line.  But, not always.  There are special fittings used with this type of water line called PEX fittings.  Below are some examples of some fittings you might see under one of your sinks.

The fittings can be of any color or even colorless but they will all have the ribs you see on the fittings above.  You will also note that each PEX fitting has a crimped ring around it.  The ring looks like below.

To put the ring on the PEX tubing and secure the ring you would need a crimping tool.  Shown below.

OK, now that you understand what you currently have let's discuss the problems this type of system brings the RVer.  The whole system can leak at any time and usually does. Every connection, if it is not put on correctly, will leak at the worse possible time. Ah, you say no problem I will just squeeze the ring with my trusty pliers.  Well, your trusty pliers will not be able to squeeze the connector hard enough to seal the leak in most cases.  What to do?  Change the fitting to a more updated connector.  We will cover that in just a minute.

Why do these cheap PEX products not work well all the time?  PRESSURE, water pressure from campgrounds varies greatly and can not.  The PEX water system in an RV cannot safely go above 65 pounds of water pressure.  I will not allow mine to go over 55 pounds of pressure.  

How do I control the RV Parks water pressure with a brass water pressure regulator? 

Brass RV Water Regulator

 You can adjust this type of regulator to any safe water pressure you like for your RV.  This type of regulator does not affect the flow of the water just the pressure. There are lesser expensive water pressure regulators like the one shown below.

Fixed Water Pressure Regulator

While this type will regulate the water pressure it also affects the flow of the water which some people find objectable.  Either one will protect your RV water system from to much PRESSURE.

OK, you just found a PEX fitting under the kitchen island that is leaking now what can you do to fix the problem and how much time is it going to cost you?

You should carry a few Shark Bite connectors like the ones shown below.

Shark Bite Coupler

Shark Bite T

Shark Bite to Threaded 

There are even more fittings to choose from but you get the idea.  The advantages of these types of connector are, 

• INSTALLS IN SECONDS: 1/2 inch straight coupling requires no special tools, no soldering, no crimping or glue. Just push to create a watertight seal

• COPPER, PEX, CPVC: SharkBite straight coupling plumbing fittings fits copper tubing, and CTS CPVC and PEX and connects all three types in any combination

• CERTIFIED: SharkBite fittings are certified to 200 PSI and 200°F and can be reused up to four times

Now doesn't that beat the PEX connector and all the fuss it would take to fix a leaky connection?

The real story here is to control your water pressure coming into your RV.  If you do not you will find leaks and under the shower or under sink water damage.  

One other thing you may want to add a water shutoff to your toilet so in case you need to work on it you do not have to shut off all the water to the RV.

Shark Bite Shut Off

Until Next Time

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

What Are Those 12-volt Sockets Good For?

We have all done it.  Left the cell phone charger sitting on the kitchen table closed the front door, made sure everything was locked up and left for our weekend RVing get away.  If you have one of those not very smartphones you know that in 8hrs or less the phone will be dead and your Hot Spot, Weather App, and every game that keeps the kids quiet during the ride will come to an end.






What to do?  Have you ever wondered what the 12 Volt Standard Wall Plate that looks like this is used for?

2 Volt Standard Wall Plate 

Or maybe you will remember this 12 volt Wall Plate with Antenna Amplifier & Switch it looks like this;

12 volt Wall Plate with Antenna Amplifier & Switch

Both of these wall plates have a 12-volt power socket just like your car, truck, or RV does.  You could plug a car charger for your phone or tablet computer into the wall plate and it would start to charge your phone or tablet computer.  Ah, but you say you have a charger for your phone already why would you need another one for the Rig?  If you remember you left it on the kitchen table and left for this trip.  OK, now what?  Well if you bought one of these 12 Volt Single Outlet USB Charger which looks like this;

12 Volt Single Outlet USB Charger

Then all you would need is either the Apple Charging Cable which looks like this;

or the Android charging cable which looks like this;

Android charging cable

and you could charge your phone, table, or any USB device and never have to worry.   You say that you need to charge two USB powered devices at the same time.  Don't worry be happy and buy a Dual USB Charger which looks like this;

 Dual USB Charger

Now all you have to do is plug in the appropriate charging cable and you are good to go.  If you need longer charging cables than 6ft you can get them up to 10ft for both Apple products and Android products.  If you would like to be able to plug the charging cable into a normal wall outlet you can buy those also.  And for those of us that want it all you can buy the USB Charging Kit Bundle  The one shown below is for Android but they have them for Apple as well.

USB Charging Kit Bundle

But they have the Apple Charging Kit Bundle as well, which is shown below;

Charging Kit Bundle

Well, that should get you going and you can just plan on leaving any of the items we talked about in the Rig for the next time you leave the charging cable and power supply on the kitchen table.


PLEASE NOTE:  The following comments may not apply to all RVs.  Without checking the wire gauge behind the socket plate there is no way to be sure that the following products can be hooked up to the 12-volt socket in your RV.

Along with the ideas above, you can use the power plug to power small appliances such as a coffee maker

12-volt coffee maker

or maybe a 12-volt frying pan.

12-volt frying pan

Maybe you are boondocking and would like to use your PS3, or some other video game or even some device that only runs on AC.  Then you would use a DC to AC converter.

DC To AC Converter

This would allow you to power Dual USB ports that can charge most phones and tablets simultaneously (Max 4.8A total output), while two grounded AC outlets (300-350W) great for charging a laptop, breast pump, nebulizer, game console, kindle, TV, DVD players, lights, iPad, and other electronic devices.

The idea here is that if the park AC power fails you can use the 12 battery that powers your rigs lights, to make coffee while you wait for the power to be restored.  While you are refueling next time at a truck stop go inside a look at all the 12-volt appliance available to the trucking community that you can use in your RV or towing vehicle. [NOTE, not all 12-volt wiring can handle 12-volt appliances.]

CAUTION:  This is not a long-term solution for power outages as your rig's battery will run down very quickly if you make dinner this way with no way to recharge your RV onboard battery now that the AC power is out.











Until next time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Bugs, Bugs, And More Bugs

Now that Spring has finally sprung, and Summer is on the way, it is time for the bugs of the RV campgrounds to rise up against their camping overlords.  I am sure that you have had your fair share of bugs either the crawling type or the buzzbomb type. I will try to give you some hints and tips on how to get rid of both types safely and cheaply.

 So let's go.

Ants

Ants we all seem to collect them either during storage or while camping. Here is a cheap and pet safe way to get rid of them both in the RV or your sticks and bricks.

You need to mix in equal parts of,

1 part baking soda

           and

1 part powdered sugar (not the granulated kind used in coffee)

You will need.
   

1 lid from any jar

Mix the baking soda and powdered sugar and put into jar lid and put out where you have seen the ants. It will not be long and the ants will be gone. So you may ask why this works. Inside of ants, there is an acid type fluid when mixed with the baking soda causes the ants to explode. If you or the dog should eat the mixture nothing much happens, it just doesn't taste good.

Cornmeal is another safe way to get rid of ants, but it can be a bit messy. Just sprinkle the meal around the nesting area or along the ant trail. In a day or so the ants will be gone.

Stink Bugs

These little devils are not native to the USA but, like many of our ancestors have immigrated to a better life here in the USA. So how do you get rid of them now that they have hitched a ride in your RV?

In a spray bottle, combine 32 ounces of hot water and three-quarters of a cup of Dawn dishwashing liquid and spray the exterior of your RV's, windows, and doors. On the inside spray around baseboards inside cabinets, closets, and any other dark area inside the RV. For an extra kick, you can use the anti-bacterial variety of dishwashing liquid, but understand that it contains additional chemicals. Of course, a good bug spray will also work but might not be safe for Fido.

Wasps

You are getting your RV ready to go for spring and you spie a wasps nest or several wasps returning to the same spot time after time. What can you do? Well spray the area or nest with WD40 and that will rid you of the nest or neutralize the area that the wasps were going to use to build their nest.

There are also a variety of commercially made glass wasp traps that claim that they are helpful in reducing wasp populations in the area. The trick is to make sure you keep replacing the bait, as wasps like fresh bait. And also, please consider using savory bait, such as tuna, as that will attract the yellow jackets and wasps, but not honeybees, which a sweet bait will. The glass traps are actually very pretty, but you can also make your own inexpensive version out of any type of plastic bottle (soda pop bottle, or water bottle). 

Follow these instructions to make your own.

Mud Dauber (Wasp)

While these wasps are non-aggressive to humans, they do cause problems to RVers by getting into places they should not be.  Like gas orifices of the heating system, hot water system, and refrigerator.  The best defense here is to plug the holes leading into these areas of the RV.  

See below for screening suggestions to keep them out of your RV.

Mosquito

The scourge of the RV camping experience the Mosquito. First, how do you keep them off you? Use Skin-So-Soft. You can purchase here Skin-So-Soft and it really does work for several hours. It is safe for kids and does not contain Deets. However during scientific tests, Deep Woods Off, proved to be the best you could buy in keeping Mosquitoes away from you. BUT it does contain DEETS. Please be careful when using Deets around children. Be sure to follow directions for use of the product.

So what about those flying around? We need to construct a mosquito trap.

Please follow this link to "Wiki How" to see how it is done. 

Make-a-Plastic-Bottle-Mosquito-Trap

Bait the trap. Mix 1/4 cup of Brown Sugar with 8oz of hot water. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool. After the mixture cools, pour into the bottom of the plastic bottle. Add 1/4 TSP of Yeast. 

DO NOT MIX!!! The mixture gives off carbon dioxide that attracts the Mosquitoes.

Once the Mosquitoes are tricked into going in they can't figure out how to get out, so they get trapped and die.

Dispose of the Mosquito trap regularly whenever the number of dead Mosquitoes does not appear to be increasing.

 You have saved the planet and your camping area from thousands (well maybe hundreds) of Mosquitoes.

We thank you!

So how do you stop or slow down bugs getting into your RV when the front door is kept closed most of the time?  You put screens over the openings caused by the water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.

Let's take each one and see what can be done.

Water heater.  You can buy a water heater vent screen, such as this one, Flying Insect Screen

Flying Insect Screen

and install it (easy DIY project) over the water heater RV vent.  I have a KZ Spree and could not find a water heater vent cover so I covered the inside of the water heater cover louvers with insect screen and used silicone to bond the screen to the metal water heater cover.  Works great.

Furnace vent. You can buy a furnace vent screen, such as this one, RV Furnace Screen

RV Furnace Screen

The kit comes with everything you need and will keep the Mud Daubers out.

Refrigerator Vents.  You can buy a refrigerator vent screen, such as this one, Refrigerator Vent Screens

 Refrigerator Vent Screens

I installed these on my Open Range 5er and use some zip ties to hold the screens in place so they would not move around.  This was a simple DIY project and will keep the bugs and Mud Daubers out.  Check around windows and doors for any cracks or small openings that may have developed and keep storage doors closed while camping and you should keep the bugs out and enjoy the indoors as much as the outdoors.

Until Next Time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Fire, Smoke, Gas, Oh MY!!!

Did you know that there is a date code on the smoke detector as well as your carbon monoxide detector in your RV?  Did you know that the propane detector in your RV has an end of life? 

I sure didn't know.  If you are just changing the detector batteries at the beginning of each RV season and removing the batteries at the end of each season you may not be doing everything you need to be safe, there is more to it.  When was the last time you tested all your detectors to be sure that they all worked? (In many cases pushing the test button on the detector does not test the most important part of the detector, the sensor.)  Do you know how to test the detectors?  When is the last time you had a fire drill in your RV? 

Let’s look for some answers.  On the back of every smoke detector, there is a date code.  You may have to hunt for it but it is there.

Beginning in 1999, Underwriters Laboratories (UL) required the manufacturing date code on the back of the device to be printed in plain English. This information may appear on the back of the device, on the face of the horn, in the battery compartment or on the top sensing chamber.

It is widely held in the RV industry that if your detector is more than five years old, or is out of date, it should be replaced. 

Some detectors have permanent batteries built-in and others need to be replaced annually.  Always use alkaline batteries when replacing batteries in detectors.  Alkaline batteries last the longest in low power usage situations, such as detectors.

Now let’s talk turkey.  Most RV manufacturers use the lowest cost, simplest smoke detector they can in their rigs.  So false alarms and the possibility of alarm failures are there.  What can you do, upgrade your standard smoke detector to a combination ionization and Photoelectric smoke particle alarm such as the

 Kidde Model Pi9010 Dual Sensing Smoke Detector . 

These alarms have fewer false alarms and will give you and your family more time to get out if there is an emergency. 

Most fire safety experts agree that you have about 20 seconds to get out of an RV that is on fire before you will be overcome and not be able to get out.

Where should I put the smoke detectors in the RV you ask?  One should be in the Master bedroom and one in the Bunkhouse (if your RV has one).  Another one should be located in the kitchen area of the rig. 

There is a new small size model smoke detector for use in storage bays or in areas where the size of the detector is important.

Photoelectric Smoke Detector

This type of small space detector is a great idea for storage areas where we may have cleaning chemicals and fire-starting chemicals and other stuff that in the right conditions can ignite and start a fire.

You can test smoke type detectors by using a burning candle near the detector and then blowing it out.  See what happens.  Also, you can push the button located on the detector to test the battery.  

Pushing the button just test the battery and the electronics and does not check the sensor inside the unit.  The candle does that.

Next, we have the Carbon Monoxide Detector.  This detector looks for the gas from combustion. CM gas is odorless, colorless, and tasteless.  This is a very deadly gas.  Every year there are deaths caused by CM gas when people run gasoline generators outside of their trailer. This detector can be located in the hallway to the bedrooms or in the bedroom itself.  Don't forget to put one in the bunkhouse. The CMD should be located off the floor about head high or higher. In my rig, the detector is located on the ceiling. The CM gas is lighter than air and will be found near the ceiling first.  Here is the one that I have  Battery Operated Carbon-Monoxide Detector. 

Battery Operated Carbon-Monoxide Detector 

NOTE: Be sure to replace the batteries at the beginning of the RV season (remove batteries at the end of the season) and keep the surface of the detector clean.

The LP Gas Detector is the last of the required detectors in your RV.  This one usually runs off of the 12-volt battery system of the RV.  It is located very near the floor usually in the hallway to the master bedroom, but not always.  This is the guy that will detect if your stove, oven, furnace, refrigerator or any other LP gas product in the RV is leaking LP into your breathing space.  LP Gas is heavier than air and sinks to the floor and builds up from there.  It has a bad odor that has been added to the gas by the LP Gas provider.  So LP Gas is not odorless, you sure can smell it.  Unless of course, you are sleeping.  If you smell gas get out, get out now, do not look for the leak just get out, and get help.

Here is a 12 volt LP Gas detector that has gotten good reviews and could replace what you are currently using if after testing yours does not work or the 5-year replacement date is up.  Remember pushing the test button on a detector does not test the sensor just the electronics and sounder.  Here is a detector that has gotten good reviews 12v LP Gas Detector.

12v LP Gas Detector

So how do you test one of these?  Remember those BIC lighters and Charcoal Starters?  Well get down near the detector and flick the BIC but do not light it.  Hold the lighter near the detector for a few seconds and you should set the alarm going.  Stop the flow of gas from the BIC and blow on the detector to dissipate the gas and the alarm should stop sounding.
A word of caution here I think is advisable.  I have heard that people are replacing the two gas detectors with one that claims it will do both jobs.  I would not want to bet my family's safety on this all in one detector.  These gasses are not the same weight in the air one gas rises and the other one sinks, now how is one detector going to be in the right place to detect the right gas?  Just say'in.

Now let's talk about firefighting.  Don't do it.  Get Out!!!  If you must fight the fire to give yourself and your family more time to get out, do you have the right fire extinguisher?  Here again, in most cases, the cheapest fire extinguisher was installed in your rig.  When was the last time you check the extinguisher?  Now is a good time before you start off for this season.  If it is a powder type, turn it over a few times to resettle the powder.  If it is a squeeze the trigger type what is the date of manufacture?  You should plan on replacing the trigger type ever six years or sooner if the gauge says so.   RVers die every year from rig fires, use the fire extinguisher to give you and your family time to get OUT not to fight the fire.

You need a fire extinguisher in each bedroom, in the kitchen area, and at the front and back door of the RV and in the storage area.  You could also have one under the driver's seat of the TV or Class A. I recommend using 

Fire Gone  

as the best, you can get to give you more time.  If the kids are old enough be sure they can operate the Fire Gone and be sure to put one in the bunkhouse.


Because of recent fire events, the following fire suppression device was developed RV Refer Compartment Fire Suppression.

RV Refer Compartment Fire Suppression

Because of the number of fires that have been caused, (or thought to have been caused) by refrigerators in RVs, an automatic fire suppression system has been developed, shown above.  This system is one the average RVer can install and will activate in the presence of a fire in the refrigerator compartment of an RV.  While you still need to get out as quickly as possible this unit may put the fire out completely or give you more time to get out either way, it is a plus.

PLEASE NOTE: I'd like to emphasize that the auto fire suppression system in this article is a halon system. It starves a fire of oxygen. It can only be used in the compartment the fridge is in. If you can see it, and it goes off, it will starve you of oxygen. So no installing it in bed or living rooms.


OK, the fire drill.  Do you know how to get out of your Rig if the front door is blocked by fire?  In each bedroom area of the rig, as well as other locations you will see a window with a red lever at the bottom.  With the word EMERGENCY EXIT printed on it.  Move the handle in the direction indicated and the window will open and you can climb out.  Of course, it will be a real job because you may have forgotten a few tools that will help make it easier. 

Did you have your emergency window prop open stick?  If you said no, you should.  Take an old broom handle, rake handle, hunk of PVC, etc, and cut it to 24" long and paint it red.  Attach two dots of hook and loop to the top and bottom of the stick and to the wall, alongside, or below the window and voila you are ready.  When the emergency occurs, open the window put in your prop stick and pull a blanket or comforter from the bed or a blanket from other area and lay it across the bottom of the window frame covering the exit handle area of the window.  This will stop you from being cut or badly scratched by the window frame as you crawl out.

Have a meeting place well outside of the rig area, that everyone knows and will meet at if there is a fire so you can take a head count and be sure everyone is safe.

Last but not the least.  Do the kids know how to get out?  Each season before you hit the road you should go over the fire safety rules and how to get out.
Rule number,
1. GET OUT
2. GET OUT
3. NEVER FIGHT THE FIRE (you have approx 20sec to get out before you can't)
4. DO NOT GO BACK FOR THE DOG, CAT or GOLDFISH
5. EVERYONE MEETS ACROSS THE ROAD

I am sure you get the picture.  Cats and dogs are part of the family for sure, but they are not humans and the kids and grandma are far more important.  Be sure to remind the kids of that.

 Fire Safety Quick Check
1. Test all Fire, LP Gas, and CM detectors
2. Do not fight the fire GET OUT!!!!
3. Know where the emergency exits are located
4. Have an escape plan
5. Have fire drills
6. Be sure the fire extinguishers are up to date






Until next time.

Don't forget to join the Weekend RVers group on Facebook a no DRAMA place with Hints, Tips, Free Stuff, Recipes, for every kind of RVer.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.