Friday, February 23, 2018

How To Stay Warm Inside The RV When It Is Cold Outside

There is a group of us RVers that like to camp all year long and we live where that is possible.  Some of us Cold Weather RVers have little choice and must be in our RV all year long.  So how can you stay warm inside the RV when the world around you is just too cold?

Let's be clear on one point. If you have a rig that can take the cold it can only take it if the main furnace is set to keep the inside of the rig above freezing.  Most all weather rigs must have the furnace running to keep water pipes that run inside the rig from freezing.  That includes the black tank and grey water tanks as well. So you will need to keep the rig furnace going but you do not need it running at 72 degrees.

Let's talk about keeping you warm and comfortable.  I suppose we could all dress like Eskimos, but that seems a bit much for just reading a book inside our rig or maybe eating dinner.
You could wrap yourself in an electric throw blanket and be comfortable, like this one.

If you added these to your feet you would be warm as toast.

These Footies or Snoozies and the electric throw you should be able to sit around and enjoy TV or read a good book.
But what about sleeping in bed?  That is a good question, so let's take a look at that.
You could put one of these Mattress Heating Pads on your bed and plug into electric and sleep warm as toast all night.  These heated pads come in all the popular sizes King, Queen, and Twin.  I have shown the queen size below;

Mattress Heating Pads
Because heat rises this mattress type heating pad is much better than a heating blanket and will use less power to keep you toasty warm during the cold night.  That might be good for the sleeping time but what about being up and moving around the rig?

Ah, but you need to heat the Rig so you need more power, I mean heat.  Then you want a Ceramic Space Heater  This type of heater generates a lot of heat for very little electricity used.  The one pictured below is what I use.  I use two of the Ceramic Heaters. One blowing toward the bedroom and one in the living room blowing toward the kitchen.  These heaters will cook you out of the Rig, they can generate so much heat.  I winter camp in North Texas and it can get below freezing, as we all found out in the winter of 2013/2014.  But even though my water hose froze outside, inside we were as warm as toast.  Shown below is the  Space Heater I have;

Ceramic Space Heater
I have listed some of the features of this unit below;
  • Ceramic heater technology uses up to 33% less energy than the typical space heater to save you money
  • LCD digital controls
  • Digital thermostat
  • 2 heat settings - 1500 watt max
  • Safety Features: Overheat Protection, Manual user reset, Cool touch plastic housing, Auto shut-off

    If you have a four-legged friend (Furkid) traveling with you, please take note: this unit comes with Auto Shut-Off.  If the Ceramic Heater is tipped over the heater shuts off automatically.  This is a very important feature if you are traveling with four-footed friends.  There are some clumsy two-legged friends out there as well.

    There are other options to keep warm in the RV you could also use one or more of these oil filled heaters.

    The simple controls allow users to customize their heat with an adjustable thermostat and three temperature settings, and the ComforTemp setting maintains an optimal room temperature while conserving energy. The heater never requires refilling, and the anti-freeze technology automatically turns the unit on when the temperature drops below 42 degrees.
    Oil heaters are quiet and run about 10.5 cents an hour to operate which can be a money saver compared to other types of heaters. 

     I know from experience that these hints and tips will work. They keep the family warm during our cold weather camping, which we enjoy most of the time. 

    Until next time.

    And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 
    Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

    Friday, February 16, 2018

    12 Volt Emergency Power & Emergency Tire Pump

    When you dash off for a weekend camping vacation, most of us just don't sweat the details.  I know, I don't and that is what gets us all into trouble.  Last camping season,  the wife, grandkids, and I headed out for just such a weekend.  It was early in the season and when we got to the campsite we were the only ones around.

    So far so good.  We had a great time exploring the Spring outdoors and when we were ready to go the truck would not start.  Normally that would not be a problem because we would have lots of fellow campers around us to help out.  Not this time.  There also was the time we were on our way to Branson MO to meet relatives, when one of the trailer tires decided to blow and the spare was nearly flat.  Forgot to air up the spare tire at the beginning of camping season.  Hey, it happens.  Short term memory fading as I get older.
    All of this drove home the point that Murphy is always with us and bad thing happen to good people as well.  So what is the solution?  One of these, 12Volt Emergency Power & Tire Pump
    What this thing does is provide emergency power to start your truck not all of the units that look like this one will start a V8 or larger engine, as well as an air station to pump-up just about anything that needs air.  You can use a standard AC extension cord as the power cord to charge the unit up.  You can even leave it plugged in for a continuous charge and not damage the unit.  Oh, it does have a DC output jack that may be used for 12volt stuff.  Also, it has a built-in tire pump that will pump up most TT and 5th wheel tires.  Again many of these combo units can't pump up RVs tires before the cows come home.  As always be sure you check your rigs tire pressure when the tire is cold not when it has been run on the road for several hours.

    Due to the fact that newer 5th wheels are using tires that require more pressure than the above unit can provide.  I am suggesting that you might want to take a look at the following RV Tire Pump.  While this unit will not start your car or truck in will pump up RV tires up to 150 lbs.
    High-Pressure RV Tire Pump

    But I hear you say that you needed something that had AC power like the 110volts that comes out of the power pedestal that your RV is plugged into.  Fear not, because you can use one of these, 110volt and USB Dual Power Inverter

    The 300W DC-AC Power Inverter with USB charging ports is designed for most major brand notebook computers, digital portables devices like, video camcorder, digital camera, iPhone, Galaxy phones and computers, iPod, cell phone, PSP handheld Game, DVD player & etc.
    You may want to pick-up the battery hook-up cable just in case.  It looks like this, 12volt Battery Clip-on Accessory Socket
    This device allows you to hook-up to any 12volt battery or any device that has 12volt battery clamps, such as the 12Volt Emergency Power & Tire Pump.
    Some of us will like a bit more AC power than the little power converter above can provide if that is the case you might want to consider this, 1000watt Power Converter

    This more powerful converter can power notebook computers, TVs, fans, refrigerators, game machines, DVDs, lights, musical instruments.  And can be powered by the 12Volt Emergency Power & Tire Pump above.  So if you need 110volt power at the picnic table or anywhere while camping, there are ways to get it that will help keep your family safe and make camping fun.

    Don't forget that you can use Emergency Power at home when the lights go out to recharge your cell phones and provide power for lights.

    Until Next Time

    Please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

    Wednesday, January 31, 2018

    RV Dog Bones and Adapters

    Many times as you travel around the country you will find that you are in need of some sort of thingy that changes what you have into something you need.  This happens most often on the electrical side of your Rig.  If you have a 50 amp rig you may find that the campground you have only has 30 amp plug-ins.  Or you may want to plug in your power pedestal power analyzer into the 30 amp or 50 amp plug-in to be sure that it is safe you plug into your rig.

    Let's see what these things look like and what they are used for.  First the RV Dog Bone.
    The typical RV Dog Bone is an electrical adapter that changes a 50 amp RV plug so that it can plug into the 30 amp socket of a power pedestal. The 30 Amp Male to 50 Amp Female Dog Bone  looks like this;

    30 Amp Male to 50 Amp Female Dog Bone  
    Of course, there may be a time when you need to plug your 30 amp Rig power cable into a 50 amp power pedestal socket  The 50 amp Male to 30 amp Female Dog Bone looks like this;

     50 amp Male to 30 amp Female Dog Bone 
    Plugging in you 30 amp RV into this adapter will not harm your Rig and will give you no more power than what you should have. The reason to do this is often the power socket on the power pedestal is worn or broken and the only good one is the one your power cord will not plug into.  These RV Power Dog Bones let you mix and match to get some power.
    So you have stopped by Grandma's house to spend a few days and you need a way to plug your RV into her outside power socket so you can get some lights and keep the fridge going.  What do you need well you need a 15 Amp Male plug to 30 amp Female plug . This little gadget is shown below.

                                                    15 Amp Male plug to 30 amp Female plug

    While these may not be all the ones you will ever need this group will get you started and cover most of the situations that you will find.  One last bit of information the industry does make Y connector so that you can get 15 amp sockets from both 50 amp and 30 amp outlets from the power pedestal.  I have shown one type below.  I do not use these myself because where I camp has always had 15 amp sockets to plug into if I need to have 15 amps at the power pedestal.  If you have a blow-up boat or kayak you might need this type of Y Adapter with 50 Amp Male Plug To RV 30 Amp and 15/20 Amp Female Connector  Shown below is what it looks like;

    Y Adapter with 50 Amp Male Plug To RV 30 Amp and 15/20 Amp Female Connector

    I would like to cover the pedestal power combiner.  These devices combine the power outlets of the power pedestal to give you more amps.  For example, if you combine the power output of the 30 amp socket with the power output of the 15 amp socket on the power pedestal you would get 45 amps of power to work with.  Or at least that is the theory.  Again I do not use this type of device as my Open Range 5th Wheel is 50 amps.  But to be fair I am showing you the device. The 45 amp Power Maximizer  The unit is shown below;

    The 45 amp Power Maximizer  
    Here is a power dog bone that I use all the time.  It is a 50 Amp right angle power adapter that takes the stress off of the power plug mounted to the trailer

    Here is the 30 Amp version as well.

    Click on the name of the item to learn more. 

    Until next time,

    Please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

    Friday, January 5, 2018

    RV Humidity -- An RV Rig Killer!

    A strong title, but true.  One of the major killers of RV walls is moisture in the form of humidity.  You don't even have to be using your RV it can be sitting in storage and humidity can still be present on the inside above a safe level.  Mold depends on moisture to grow and flourish. What is a person to do?  Well, the safe level of humidity for an RV is 40% or thereabouts.  So the first thing you need to do is know your current humidity level and the best way to know that is with a humidity monitor.

    In the photo for the Humidity Monitor, the screen is showing 53% which is not acceptable for an RV.  The reading shown is more likely a Sticks&Bricks house.
    Now that you know what the humidity is.  What can or should you do if it is not right.  You need to try and find out the source of the moisture causing the high humidity.  People give off moisture when we breathe, but getting rid of all the kids is not an option be they fur or not.

    Next showers or taking a bath gives off moisture.  Be sure that the bathroom fan is turned on during the bathing process, even in the colder months.  Wipe down the shower and bath area to reduce the amount of moisture that is evaporated back into the air of the RV.

    Cooking is another moisture generator.  Keep lids on pans when cooking, to keep the moisture down, open a window a bit to let the warm moist air out, and turn on the kitchen vent if you have one.  Many of the newer RVs do not vent the stove vent to the outside.  This is not good, as an inside vented stove hood keeps the moist air inside the RV.  Do not let a tea kettle steam longer that is necessary.  Don't leave a coffee pot running all day long.  Make a cup as you need it or the coffee pot will add to the humidity in the RV all day long.

    Try to locate any seals in the RV slides that is letting in outside air and seal that area.  You can cut strips of foam insulation like Reflectix or other foam insulation.  If you find caulking around the tub or shower stall or even around the kitchen/ bathroom sink is missing or cracking re-caulk using 100% silicone sealant as shown below.  This keeps water from going in the RV wood structure or supports where, if conditions are right, mold will start to grow.

    If it is during the colder months and your RV has single pane windows you might add Bubble Wrap to the windows.
    To install the bubble wrap do the following.

    Cut the bubble wrap to the size of the window pane with scissors.
    Spray a film of water on the window using a spray bottle.

    Apply the bubble wrap while the window is still wet and press it into place.
    The bubble side goes toward the glass.
    To remove the bubble wrap, just pull it off starting from a corner.

    This bubble wrap will help insulate the inside of the window from the outside of the window to further reduce moisture forming on the inside of the window when the outside air is colder than the inside air.

    Do you dry clothes in the RV by hanging them in the bathroom?  Did you remember to turn on the exhaust fan?  It is not wise to dry clothes in the RV during the colder months because drying clothes add to the amount of moisture inside the RV.  Do you have a combination washer/dryer?  Make sure the dryer is vented to the outside.  If you do not the dryer will add to the moisture in the RV.

    If it possible let the RV inside temperature drop a bit in colder weather so the air inside the RV will hold less moisture.  Cooler air holds less moisture than warm air.  You may have to dress a bit warmer, but your RV investment will thank you for being a bit cooler.

    Poor air circulation inside the RV can make mold grow in drawers, closets, and even cabinets.  Keep the air moving even when you are not inside your RV.  How you may ask? You could open two roof vents or a single roof vent and crack a window so that air naturally flows in and out.  You can add a MaxxAir vent cover

    over your current roof vents so that you can keep your vents open without rain or snow coming in the RV when the roof vent is open. You should put your RV in storage with vents cracked a little bit to allow for air movement.

    If your RV does not have LED lighting you could swap out your current incandescent light bulbs for the LED equivalent.  This will reduce the about of air heating that the hotter incandescent bulbs are known for.  There is an LED replacement light for most all of the RV incandescent bulbs used in RVs. As an additional benefit, your RV battery will last longer during dry camping with LED lighting and depending on the LED light you buy you may find that the inside of your RV is now brighter with the lights on.

    OK, we have talked about what not to do and some of what you can do to reduce moisture in the RV now let's get serious about stopping or greatly reducing moisture in your RV.
    1. Get a dehumidifier.  They come in several sizes and types.
    The simplest one to do business with is the bead type.

    Twin Pack resealable packaging
    100% silent operation
    Lasts 45-60 Days
    Indicator beads let you know when it's ready to be discarded.

    You can spot these around the RV and in closets, cabinets, drawers, where ever you feel or think moisture may be lurking.
    Next, you have the mechanical dehumidifiers.

    Whisper quiet
    Renewable reservoir
    Compact size is perfect for bathrooms, closets, and R.V.s
    Low energy consumption
    One of these usually works but if you have a severe problem you may want to consider two of them.

    If you have an RV more than 36 feet long you may want to consider this one.

    Squeeze's Up to 20 oz. of Water a Day From Humid Air
    Very Quiet Operation Due to No Moving Parts
    At Capacity, Indicator Lights Up and Device Shuts Off
    Compact at 4.45 pounds, 6.8" x 8.5" x 14"
    For bunkhouse RVs, you will need two.

    And if you really need more moisture removal you can use a sticks and bricks type unit.
    Removes up to 70 pints of moisture from the air per day
    1.3-gallon water tank with transparent water level indicator, full bucket alert and automatic shut-off when full
    Removable, easy-cleaning dust filter with a clean filter alert
    4 durable, rolling casters for easy movement

     It is generally felt that a combination of dry and mechanical works the best.

    Well, that should about do it for this topic.  I hope you found the information helpful and can use some of the ideas presented.

    Until Next Time

    Don't forget to join the Weekend RVers on Facebook a no DRAMA place with Hints, Tips, Free Stuff, Recipes, for every kind of RVer.

    And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

    Sunday, October 15, 2017

    Living In Your RV In The Winter Tips

    We have talked about staying warm in your RV during the cold winter months. First by moving South to warmer weather but, for many that is not an option. If you have to say in the cold for whatever reason what should you do to help your RV not to freeze. Let's look at the different areas of the RV and what can be done to keep that area from freezing.

    First the outside perimeter.  Ok, let's get it on the table, do not use bales of hay to surround the rig.

    Why, they're are cheap and easy to stack?
    Because of  FIRE, rodents, and bugs. If for some unknown reason the hay should catch fire there would be little chance of survival.  And don't forget that many outdoor creatures would love to come inside your RV and spend the cold winter months.

    What can be used?  You can use skirting for your specific RV. Which is shown below;
    While this is expensive it is a good solution to the problem of cold air getting under your RV.  There is another solution for the DIYer and that is 

    Foil-Faced Foam Sheathing board is rigid polyisocyanurate foam sheathing that provides exceptional heat, moisture, and air control.
    • 4'x8' sheet (9' and 10' available via special order)
    • 3/4" thick
    • R-4.4
    • One side has a reflective foil face typically installed toward the warm air surface to reflect energy back toward the dwelling and the other side has a white non-reflective foil face typically installed toward the exterior.
    • Can be used in residential construction as insulated sheathing in above grade exterior walls, above and below grade interior walls crawl spaces attic, sand cathedral ceilings as well as Type I-V commercial applications
    • Highest R-value per inch of any rigid board insulation.
    • Does not melt when exposed to flame versus other types of rigid foam board (ASTM E84)
    • Reflective aluminum foil face blocks radiant heat and prevents penetration of air and intrusion of moisture

    Dimensions: 3/4" x 4ft x 8ft Cost as little as $9.25 per sheet

    This type of foil backed foam board can be cut to fit and close-in around the RV to protect the underbelly of the RV from freezing. This type of insulation is available at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc.
    You would secure the foam to the RV and to itself by using aluminum heating duct tape.
    The area under the RV that you create by enclosing the area needs to be heated with a low heat generator such as this mini heater.

    This heater uses about 200 watts of AC power and I would use two of them for a 40ft trailer.  The heater should be placed off the ground several inches in case of water flow.

    Second is the water and control compartment.
    Yours may look different,  but the issue is that it needs heat.  This area should be kept warm by a Mini Heater or 60 watt light bulb.  The concern is the water hookup to the trailer and the ability to release the black and grey water tanks valves. One problem you can encounter with a light bulb as a heat source is light.  In many articles that I have read on winter camping one solution to heating, a small area is using a 60 watt light bulb.  But at no time does anyone offer a solution to the light pollution that is given off by the bulb.  Here is one solution you might consider,  a
    60 Watt Non-Lighting Heat Source
     This non-lighting heat source can be used by screwing into a clamp on-light fixture or using just a bulb socket and cord.

    Following is a sample of a clamp on a lamp base.

    For the fresh water lines, you will need to use the shortest hose you can to go between your rig and the fresh water source. 
    • Provides constant source of water in freezing temperatures
    • Thermostatically controlled
    • Turns on when temperatures are below 45 degrees
    • Turns off when temperatures are above 50 degrees
    • Made from drink-safe PVC
    • Keeps water from freezing down to minus 42-Degrees Fahrenheit
    • Tougher thermostat
    Do not let the hose lay on the ground.  You can do this by wrapping the water hose in pipe insulation. You can get some from Home Depot, Lowes Menards etc.
    Use some of the Aluminum Tape to seal the pipe insulation and do not forget to wrap the water source with pipe insulation to help keep it flowing.  Some people even build a box out of the foil foam board to cover the water source to further insulate.
    Next the sewer and sewer hose. "DO NOT LEAVE THE DRAIN VALVES OPEN" Open as needed to dump the gray or black tank.  Use the shortest sewer pipe you can and you need to support it off the ground.  Wrap the sewer hose with heat tape first.
    Next wrap the sewer hose and heat tape in a blanket made from a Hot Water Heater Insulation blanket
    You want to wrap it tight and then tape it very well to hold it together.  Leave an overlap at both ends to go over the sewer connection and the sewer pipe that comes out of the ground and be sure the heater tape is wrapped around the end of the pipe that is attached to the RV as well as the water heater insulation blanket.
    To keep the sewer hose off the ground and well supported you can use rain gutter pipe or you can use,
    Some RVers even put a gallon of RV antifreeze down the black tank after dumping the tank to help ensure that nothing gets frozen between dumps.
    I have not tried this myself, but there is no reason it would not be a good idea.  It is an added expense that would need to be considered.

    I believe that covers the outside of the rig now let's move inside and see what can be done to keep out the cold and keep in the warm.
    You need to check all doors that you go in and out of the rig with.  If you can see daylight around the edge of the door with the door closed. You will have cold air coming into the rig.  You need to put door weather seal around the door to seal the door better.
    What about the windows you say.  You are right if your rig windows are single pane, as most of them are, you will need to winterize them as well.  The easiest way is to us the small bubble pack wrapping material that you can find almost anywhere.

      • Cut the bubble wrap to the size of the window pane with scissors.
      • Spray a film of water on the window using a spray bottle.
      • Spray a film of water on the bubble side of the bubble wrap using a spray bottle.
      • Apply the bubble wrap while the window is still wet and press it into place.
      • The bubble side goes toward the glass.
      • To remove the bubble wrap, just pull it off starting from a corner.
    Next let's look at the vents in the rig. All of the vents through the roof allow warm air to rise into a cold space and chill the air.  We need to block the upward movement of the air but still be able to use the vent when needed.  A vent pillow is just the thing.  You can make them if you are handy or buy some cheap pillows you can stuff into the vent opening or you can get these.

    Fits standard 14" RV vents

    Reflective surface blocks the sun's damaging rays
    Full 2.75" of foam to help stop heat transfer
    Durable and easy to store
    Keep your RV cooler in the Summer and warmer in the Winter

    Now that we have sealed the rig against the cold air we have now trapped water vapor from cooking, propane heating, showers, and human breathing inside the rig.  You will begin to see water or moisture on the walls of the rig and anything that is colder than the inside air.  This is not good and can cause mold.  To get rid of the moisture and reduce the humidity we need a dehumidifier.  Several ideas come to mind.

    Quiet Small-Size Dehumidifier with No Moving Parts

    Removable 16-oz. Water Tank & Washable Air Filter

    Features 'Tank Full' Indicator Light

    Auto-Shuts When Water Reservoir is Full

    Measures Just 5.75" x 5.32" x 8.78" in

    You might need two of these in a large 40ft rig.  They do work and keep the air drier but not completely dry.

    Next is the Goldenrod Heaters.  You also will need several of these in larger rigs but they are smaller and you do not need to dump them, like the one above.

    This unit comes in different sizes up to 36 inches in length.  It consumes about 1 watt per inch and is mounted along the wall at the floor level.  You will need several in a large rig as they can dehumidify approximately 200 cube feet of air. So if you have a bunkhouse then that room would have its own unit. The main living area would have one and the master bedroom would have one.

    Something I have used is DampRid in closets and drawers where moisture is not wanted and maybe harmful to the contents of the surrounding area.

    That should do it.  You have done your best to get the rig ready for winter and now the daily grind begins.  In a separate blog post, we cover how to keep you and the kids warm when it is cold outside.

    Until next time.

    And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

    Tuesday, May 9, 2017

    Water Out Of The Campground Faucet, YUCK!!

    Well,  I suppose that most of you enjoy Artesian spring water with just a touch of Evian for good taste at your campground.  I know I do. NOT!!  While most city water is ok (well some is less than ok but just barely drinkable). Most campground water is not even ok but is drinkable.  With just a little bit of  DIY skills, you can improve your drinking, cooking, and shower water to be something to be proud of.  Enter the RV water filtration system.

    Let's look at the simplest of these non-RV filtration systems and see what makes it filter.  The carbon/charcoal filter is the simplest of the non-RV water filters.  The filter holder can look like this
    Culligan HF-150A Filter Holder
    So how do you hook this blue thingy up to your RV?  You will need a few more simple parts.  The input and out put of the holder is 3/4" so any big box DIY store will have the needed plumbing parts.
    You will need 3/4" Garden Hose to 3/4" Brass Coupler/Adapter  it looks like this
    3/4" Garden Hose to 3/4" Brass Coupler/Adapter
    This screws into the filter holder and allows the drinking water hose to hookup to it. (this attaches to the output of the filter holder)

    For the input of the filter you will need a Female hose to Male pipe  It will look like the following.
    Female hose to Male pipe 
    You can mount the filter holder to the rig or you can just set it on the ground.  If you want to mount it you will need a Filter Mounting Bracket The filter mounting bracket will look like this.
    Filter Mounting Bracket
    You can use the bracket if you wish or just sit the filter canister on the ground.  Next, comes the Drinking Water Filter with Carbon  The filter comes in a two pack and looks like below.
     Drinking Water Filter with Carbon

    So you are saying to yourself  why do I want to DIY this type of project when I can just go and buy one of these,
    RV Water Filter

    The answer is, that once the big blue filter is put together, you can get two of the filter replacement cartridges for big blue for less than one of the above filters.  Also, there is the chance of bacterial build up because, unless you are a full timer you are not using the filter enough.  With the replacement cartridges, you can just take it out and throw it away and use a new one next time you go out and you will still be saving money.

    But wait there is more.
    What if we add a second big blue filter?  Would we gain anything?  You bet.  So let's do it.

    The two stage filter
    For a two stage filter, you will need everything we listed for the one stage filter plus a 3/4" Brass Nipple that looks like this,
    3/4" Brass Nipple - Length you must determine
    You will need to measure the length that the nipple must be and buy one from one of the Big Box DIY stores. This nipple will be used between the blue filter cans and the other fittings will be the input and the output of the filters just as before.  You now have a chance to increase the filtering of your drinking water.  Now you will start to use Sediment Replacement Filter which looks like this,
    Sediment Replacement Filter
    A sediment filter gets rid of: sand, silt, dirt, rust particles and scale particles The park water should come into this filter first, then go through the Drinking Water Filter with Carbon and finally into your rig.  So now we are done, right?  Not so fast RVer slow down and keep reading.

    The Triple RV Filter
    With this type of filter system, you have the best possible filter system for still not a lot of money.  So what do you need?  Everything listed above plus an additional 3/4" Brass Nipple of the correct length to go between two more blue filter canisters.  Plus one more special type sediment filter the Special RV Filter which looks like this,
    Special RV Filter

    This special filter goes just before the Drinking Water Filter.  I know this looks like a lot of work but it really is not.  It is just a lot of hooking up of pipes to plastic.  You will need some Plumbers White Tape which looks like this,
    Plumbers White Tape 
    I would suggest getting several rolls as the tape tends to tangle and get wasted.  You will want to check for leaks after assembly by hooking up your filter system and be sure to let the water from the filter system to run on the ground for five minutes or until the water is running clear.  Some black pieces of carbon may come out onto the ground and this is normal.
    Mounting the filters
    You can use a 2"X 4" (2x4) of the length you need and mount the filter holders to that as a way of keeping them corralled together or you could mount them in one of the service bays on the rig. It is up to you.
    The water you will get from the triple filter has to be drunk to be believed.  This system will not take pond water or salt water and make it drinkable.  This will, however, make city treated or treated well water taste just great.  And the wife's ice tea will be out of this world.

    Until next time

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